Today grazing plays an important role in maintaining these grassland, heathland and meadow environments that would otherwise return to their truly natural states of scrubland and woodland cover.

Grazing allows less competitive species of plant to establish as the dominant species are removed. Trampling, lying, rolling and other ‘damage’ caused by livestock can also be beneficial in providing bare soil for seed colonisation. This type of management also benefits the wildlife by providing habitat and food sources.

Smallholders can play an important role in conservation grazing schemes which suit the small-scale livestock keeper for a number of reasons.

One of the most obvious is that smallholders are more likely to keep traditional or native breeds which tend to thrive on a diet of low grade forage that is a feature of many conservation grazing sites. They can also provide additional land at certain times of year enabling smallholders to increase their herd or flocks sizes where appropriate. This in turn can help provide benefits to local communities in the form of new skills, improved, usable and enjoyable surroundings and fresh local produce.

Hebridean sheep thrive on scrub making them perfect of conservation grazing

The vast majority of conservation grazing takes place on land owned by the Wildlife Trusts, RSPB, National Trust, local land trusts and the Forestry Commission, many of which now manage their own livestock

Different areas will need to achieve different goals from their grazing activity so type of stock and breed selection is important, if not essential, to the success of these schemes. Cows and ponies generally munch non-selectively while sheep can be more picky. Other animals such as pigs, lamas and goats, while not used as extensively, would also suit certain areas. However, in all cases, consideration of the dietary requirements of the animal used will always be a prime consideration.

The Grazing Advice Project (GAP) is a partnership of farmers, land managers and conservation organisations committed to promoting the benefits of grazing in respect of the natural environment and our cultural heritage. It currently includes representatives from Natural England, the National Trust, Defence Estates and is managed and run as part of the Rare Breeds Survival Trust.

Conservation grazing on the meads in Hertfordshire

The Project runs two courses – a one day Livestock Checkers course designed for volunteer stock checkers and the two day Conservation Grazing in Practice for livestock keepers wishing to explore the possibilities of the practice.

The Grazing Animals Project website contains a plethora of useful information or you can register to find or offer grazing on the RBST website’s ‘Marketplace’ or on the “Stock-keep” website. Contact the RBST on 0247 669 6551 for more information.

Stag Beetle

Stag beetle: fighting a losing battle

Many years ago I remember seeing these hatch in the late spring, sometimes in their hundreds, but haven’t seen this spectacular event, any beetles or the distinctive larvae, for quite some time now.

The largest beetle found in the UK males can reach a whopping 75mm and have distinctive antlers (hence stag) used for wrestling other males for territory or mating rights. These are not horns at all but enlarged mandibles that are capable of moving, gripping and, yes. biting an unwitting finger. Females are smaller reaching a maximum of about 40mm. Both appear at first glance to be predominantly black but on closer inspection the wing cases are tinged purple/brown with male antlers also a brown colour.

The population has declined drastically over the past 40 years or so and is now predominantly contained in the South-East of the country. It is rare elsewhere and completely absent from some areas.

The stag beetle’s lifecycle is heavily dependent on rotting wood, in fact the larvae spend 3 years growing and developing in rotting logs or the roots of dead or felled trees and it is the loss of this type of environment that is largely to blame for the beetle’s decline. Stag beetle numbers have also been affected by natural predation, especially by members of the crow family and, as is so often the case, as a direct result of human activity.

As we gradually made our gardens, woodlands and public open spaces ever more neat and tidy so the rotten wood and tree stumps disappeared; however, as environmental managers have become more aware of the issues we now see more and more suitable habitat being created as part of ongoing development projects. We can also help by making a log pile in an unused area of our gardens. Partially bury logs to get them rotting more quickly.

Other rare insects: Southern damselfly, small blue butterfly

Natterjack Toad

Natterjack toad: slowly disappearing. Pics courtesy of Matt Wilson

Natterjack toads may be warty but there is something about them that is quite endearing. It has short legs compared to other toads and frogs meaning that instead of the stereotypical hop it walks, or even runs. These short legs also mean that, unusually for an amphibian, it’s not a terribly good swimmer and can even drown in a deep pond if caught without an exit plan. It is identified by a thin but clear yellow line down its back which is present from the time tadpoles grow legs.

Their perfect habitat is one of sandy soil with warm shallow pools and consequently they are only really found on sand dunes and heathlands which, unfortunately, is the reason for their scarcity today. It’s a sad fact that in the last 120 years more than 80 percent of the natterjack’s natural environment has been lost to development, reclamation and afforestation. Their distribution is now mainly restricted to areas in East Anglia, Lincolnshire, Lancashire and Cumbria and although they once had some inland strongholds these populations have now dwindled with the majority now found in coastal area. The species actually became extinct in Wales in the last century but has since been reintroduced.

As if that wasn’t enough, it is also a victim of heavy predation at all stages of its life with adults falling prey to foxes, herons, gulls, terns and otters and tadpoles taken by birds, fish, other amphibians and insect larvae. Perhaps this is why the female can lay up to 7,500 eggs in a season. The natterjack itself has a varied diet of insects, worms, slugs and grubs and catches its prey with a super fast sticky tongue.

They hibernate during winter (November to April), either by digging their own burrow or using one deserted by other animals and birds, emerging in Spring to breed. During the mating season they make a very noisy neighbour with the male’s call audible up to 2 miles away, giving it the dubious honour of being Europe’s loudest amphibian

There are now programmes underway that are reintroducing natterjacks back into areas that once had thriving colonies but only time will tell how successful these prove to be. We have our fingers crossed.

Great Crested Newt

Female great-crested newt. Picture courtesy of Froglife

There are three species of newt resident in the UK: common, palmate and great crested. All are widely distributed but the great crested newt is by far the rarest.

They are much larger than the other two species reaching 15cm or more and have black warty skin. They also display a bright orange underbelly with black spots. Males have small white pimples evident on the sides and a white stripe along the length of the tail. During breeding season the male will sport the pronounced dorsal crest from which its name is derived. They have a complex courtship dance that involves thrashing and flicking their tail and standing on its front legs. Tadpoles hatch in the spring and can be distinguished from those of other amphibians by their feathery gills and later by the fact that they develop their back legs first.

All UK newts are protected but great crested newts are subject to additional protection meaning that it is illegal to kill, harm, disturb their habitat, possess or trade in them.

Newts hibernate in winter making a show from about March onwards. Great crested newts will be found in water during the mating season but tend to spend a great deal of the time on the land at other times. They are nocturnal and will spend the days in cool burrows, compost heaps or log piles.

Habitat has become threatened by land development and agricultural expansion. Great crested newts generally favour an area with a large clean open pond with no fish and plenty of vegetation at the boarders where they can lay their eggs. They have a hearty appetite so also need an environment containing plenty of food. They will eat land and aquatic invertebrates such as slugs, snails, worms and insect larvae but will also take tadpoles and even other newts. These requirements mean that garden ponds aren’t generally suitable to sustain a great crested newt colony.

Restoration of suitable habitat is the mainstay of the conservation effort and many areas now have schemes in place to encourage population growth.

Froglife is a charity focused on the conservation of amphibians and reptiles. They have produce an informative guide for the creation and restoration of ponds in farmed landscapes that can be found here.

Other rare amphibians: Pool Frog

Devil’s bolete mushroom

Southern England is the northern most point of this mushroom’s range. Found in areas with chalky soils, usually around oak or beech trees, these bloated looking mushrooms are both poisonous and unpleasant smelling especially when fully grown. The cap is a light buff colour with the bulbous stalk having a pinky-red colour and the underside of the cap is dotted with pores as opposed to the more familiar gills you may expect. The flesh turns blue if bruised or cut.

Due to the nature of fungus it is difficult to tell exactly how rare this mushroom (or any) is as they can produce fruiting bodies quite erratically. However, it is currently thought to be present in only 40 sites in the south of England

Other rare fungus: Sandy stilt puffball

White-Clawed Crayfish

Picture by David Gerke, licenced under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported scheme

Our only native crayfish and one faced with the real possibility of extinction. The white-clawed crayfish has had to struggle against habitat change and pollution but its fate was sealed when North American signal crayfish, which were originally brought over to farm for food in the 70s, escaped into our waterways. This larger more aggressive cousin from across the pond easily out competes our more timid variety for resources but also carries a fungal disease known as ‘crayfish plague’ to which the white-clawed variety has no natural immunity to.

There are small populations dotted around the UK but most are to be found in central and northern regions of England and West Wales.

There is very little that can be done to help the ailing population especially as controlling the non-native varieties is almost impossible. There are, however, some projects – notably the Avon Wildlife Trust’s white-clawed crayfish conservation project – that are monitoring native and non-native species and have even removed ‘at risk’ populations to ‘ark sites’ where they can be effectively quarantined away from plague carrying species.

Other rare fresh water creatures: Depressed river mussel, Glutinous snail

Humans and bees lives have always be closely intertwined but never have they been so inextricably linked as they are now.

Of the 250 odd species of bee currently identified in the British Isles only one displays the right combination of colonial living and excessive honey production that make it suitable for domestication and that is the aptly named honey bee.

This industrious and social insect affects our everyday lifestyles in a most profound way. They are a vital component in the world’s food production cycle and through the process of pollination are responsible, directly or indirectly, for up to 70 percent of the food on our shelves. It’s not just honey but all manner of fruits, vegetables, nuts, even cotton and coffee that we can thank them for.

For this reason it has been said that the health of the world is reflected in the health of the bee population and if this is the case we should be concerned. The bee population has decreased dramatically in recent years and the trend looks set to continue unless rapid action is taken.
Factors such as a decline in suitable flowering plants, pesticides, pollution and parasites, such as the ubiquitous Varroa mite, have all had an impact as has the largely unexplained phenomena of colony collapse disorder where a colony’s entire worker bee population will suddenly disappear.

Last year’s wet summer also compounded the problem as bees, unable to fly in the rain, have found it difficult to collect enough food. This in turn affects the wider food chain when the plants that rely on them for pollination produce less.

It’s not just happening here either this is a global phenomena. Such is the problem that there are now few, if any, wild colonies left in this country meaning managed hives are the only way of maintaining the population.

The good news is that we can all do something to help so here are seven suggestions for ways in which you can support your local honey bee population.

The 8 point beesiness plan

1. Buy local honey. Yes it can be that easy. It’s delicious and the proceeds will help support local beekeepers.

Picture courtesy of Gabriel”s Honey Farm

2. Planting for bees. You may have many bee-friendly plants in your garden already as a lot of popular flowers and shrubs such as hollyhocks, sunflowers, asters, hebe, sedum and the ‘butterfly bush’ buddleja are all excellent food sources. Some that you may not be aware of though are vegetables such as peas and beans or flowering herbs such as mint. If you have more space you could consider soft fruit plants or fruit trees such as cherry, apple, pear or plum.

3. Talk to your local authority. Encourage your local council to use more honey bee friendly plants in its public spaces or to establish wildflower meadows where possible.

4. Got a suitable space but don’t want to run a hive yourself?
If you have any spare space that could be used for a hive please contact your local beekeeping association or group as they may be able find a keeper who can put it to good use.

5. Educate about bees. If you run a social group, school or club get a beekeeper along to tell them about these fascinating creatures. Beekeepers are very passionate about their work and are usually more than happy to come along and share their knowledge.

6. Wash your jars. Strange as it may seem supermarket honey from abroad can contain certain bacterias which are extremely harmful to our native honey bees. In these days of increased interest in recycling make sure that any honey jars are thoroughly washed before putting them outside as bees will be attracted to an easy meal and a single bee can spread an infection through an entire colony.

7. Swarms. Contrary to popular belief swarming bees are generally fairly docile. Swarming is simply the process by which bees increase their numbers by forming new colonies. If you spot a swarm, leave well alone but let your local authority or the police know and they will contact a local beekeeper to collect it.

8. A hive of your own. Anyone interested in setting their own hive should contact their local beekeeping association for advice. Most will run introductory courses or allow you to become a beekeepers ‘buddy’ (below) before you commit to your own hive.

Picture courtesy of the British Beekeepers Association

There are seven branches of the Hertfordshire Beekeepers’ Association with around 350 members servicing an estimated 600 hives in the county. Visit www.hertsbees.org.uk or www.bbka.org.uk to find your local branch.

From gravel pit to Special Protection Area and Ramsar (internationally important wetland) site, the 40.8 hectare Amwell Nature Reserve, near Stanstead Abbotts, has undergone a massive transformation in the last 20 years. Thanks to several significant awards and much hard work by local groups and individuals, the site’s owner, Herts and Middlesex Wildlife Trust, has made this wonderful wildlife haven more accessible to the public.

Many will already be aware of the Reserve due to its high profile but elusive resident, the otter. Others may have spent time trying to catch a glimpse of the Bitterns that have become a regular winter visitor but many more still won’t realise just what an Aladdin’s cave of flora and fauna is right there on their doorstep.

Click for enlarged view

As well as the full-time resident wildfowl, the site is hugely important for over-wintering species such as Gadwall and Shoveler and summer visitors such as the Little Ringed Plover. And it’s not just birds, Amwell is home to all 19 species of dragonfly and damselfly currently identified as resident in Hertfordshire and is the most important site in the county for water beetles. With these and the 350 species of plant, including a thriving orchid population, you can see why the Trust describes Amwell as “the most significant acquisition of land in our history”.

Tracks around the reserve are accessible to all and although they may be muddy after wet weather they are firm and level in most places. There are hides and walkways, a dragonfly trail and clear signage to help bring you closer to wildlife at the reserve.

Rare but there

Wild otters became extinct in Hertfordshire in the late 1970s due to loss of habitat, pollution and hunting. However, six animals were re-introduced in 1991 by the Otter Trust and they have bred successfully. If you are quiet, patient and very lucky you may just catch a glimpse of this charismatic but very elusive resident of the Reserve. Best spotting time for otters is early morning or evening.

The Amwell year highlights

Winter (Dec-Feb)
• Wintering wildfowl (Gadwall and Shoveler in particular)
• Gull roost
• Roosting Jackdaws and crows
• Roosting Little Egrets
• Wintering Bittern(s)
• Reed Buntings

Shoveler: Colourful winter visitor Pic:Clare Gray

Spring (March-June)
• Passage wading birds
• Bird breeding season. Birdsong plus displaying birds of prey – Sparrowhawk, Hobby, Buzzard
• Start of the dragonfly season
• Marsh orchids and other flowers

Summer (July – August)
• Dragonflies
• Passage wading birds feeding on muddy shorelines
• Butterflies

Green Sandpiper Pic: Barry Trevis

Autumn (September – November)
• Returning wintering birds.
• Passage wading birds
• Autumn colours of Easneye Woods and lakeside trees

Access

All three hides have ramps or are wheelchair friendly and the view point is ‘layered’ to allow wheelchairs to roll up to it at the first level. Information boards and way markers further enhance the experience and identify the flora and fauna.

Directions

Nearest towns: Stanstead Abbotts, St. Margarets and Ware OS map reference: TL376127
The nature reserve is near to both the A414 and A10, and accessed via Amwell Lane. From Stanstead Abbotts, turn off the B181 into Amwell Lane. From Ware (A1170 heading south), turn left into Lower Road and then left into Amwell Lane after approx 1 mile.10 minute walk from St Margaret’s rail station (Stanstead Abbotts). Buses stop here from Hoddesdon and Ware. The nature reserve can also be reached on foot/cycle via the River Lee Navigation towpath from Stanstead Abbotts, Ware and Hertford.

Herts and Middlesex Wildlife Trust

Amwell Nature Reserve is just one of more than 40 nature reserves managed by Herts and Middlesex Wildlife Trust. If you would like more details on HMWT’s work for wildlife or how to join please contact 01727 858901, email info@hmwt.org or visit www.hertswildlifetrust.org.uk

Project time: 1.5 hours

Difficulty: easy

What you’ll need:

Wood
Pretty much any type of wood will do as long as it hasn’t been treated. Chipboard and other manufactured boards will degrade quickly outside if exposed to weather so should be avoided unless your box will be sited in a very sheltered position. Hardwood will last longer then a softwood such as pine but it may also be a bit more expensive if you are buying it new. Try to use wood that is at least 15mm thick to avoid the wood bowing or twisting and to keep the inside of the box insulated. If you are buying your wood you should be able to cut all pieces from a single plank

Drill
If you have hole cutting bits you will need a minimum of 25mm diameter for Blue Tits and other similar size birds, 28mm for those the size of a Tree Sparrow, 32mm for House Sparrow and 45mm for Starlings. If not draw a circle in the correct position, drill lots of holes around the inside edge and then tap or chisel the middle out.

Nails or screws
Use galvanised or special external grade nails or screws so they don’t rust.

Saw to cut your panels

Hammer or Screwdriver

Hinge
You can use either a rustproof brass or plastic hinge or improvise one from a strip of rubber (old inner tube works well) nailed to the roof and backboard. You will also need to make sure the roof is secured with some kind of catch mechanism or screw to keep it shut.

Assembling your bird box

Download the pdf plans here. You will see that there are two types, one with an entrance hole for the likes of tits, sparrows, Nuthatches, Starlings and Woodpeckers and one open-fronted more suited to Robins, Wrens and Spotted Flycatchers. Both are just as easy to make so choose the one best suited for your garden visitors or, if you are feeling particularly handy, make both.

It is best not to include a perch as this could be of more use to potential predators than the birds themselves.

Cut your wood panels to size. The sizes in the plans are approximate and you can tinker with the dimensions to suit the wood you have to hand and the birds you are trying to attract. The plan is for a box suitable for smaller birds like sparrows and Nuthatches. Make your box bigger for Starlings and Woodpeckers. If the wood is smooth cutting out some grooves under the entrance hole to help the babies climb up when it’s time to fly the nest.

With the exception of the roof, which needs to be hinged for cleaning at the end of the season, screw or nail all the panels, together. Don’t use glue to assemble your box as this stops moisture escaping from the joints. Drill a couple of holes in the bottom to allow water to drain should it get in.

Don’t worry if your DIY skills are a bit rusty, it doesn’t have to be perfect, after all, you are simply trying to replicate a hole in a tree so it just needs to be safe and weatherproof. If using softwood you may want to apply a coat of bird friendly wood preservative. Do this to the outside only and leave a couple of centimetres around the entrance hole uncoated.

That’s all there is to it.

The finished box. This one was made from a single planed plank but you can be as creative as you like with materials and design.

How and where to hang your bird box

Hang your bird box on a tree, fence or other suitable place away from areas where other birds will congregate such as bird tables or feeders. Be careful not to put it anywhere that gives cats or other predators easy access or a good hiding place close to the box. Boxes for Robins and Wrens should be situated in amongst foliage and preferably low down (under two metres) whereas other birds prefer theirs higher up, between two and four metres, with a clear flightpath in. These aren’t hard and fast rules and you may have good results with other situations so feel free to experiment. Make sure the entrance is facing away from prevailing winds.

A single nail will usually fix your box securely to most supports but if you are worried about damaging a tree you can use suitable wire to tie them on. You should protect the tree with a layer of plastic tubing or rubber around the wire and remember to adjust it as the tree grows.

Cleaning your bird box

By law you can only clean out your nest box between the beginning of August and the end of January but it is best to leave this until the end of October to avoid disturbing any late nesting families. Remove the old nest and clean thoroughly with hot water, allowing the box to dry properly before re-hanging. Any unhatched eggs must be disposed of as, again, you cannot keep or sell them by law.

Make sure you do put you boxes back up over winter as many species still use them for roosting in the colder month.

Win a Bird Box

You can win the bird box shown in the photo and made by my own fair hand. All you need to do is send me a email to stuart@pocketfarm.co.uk, on or before February 14th 2013, with Bird Box Competition Entry in the subject line and I will pick a winner at random on February 15th. Postal entries can be sent to the address on our contacts page here.

Terms and Conditions

These timid little creatures are also becoming pray to larger mammals such as badgers who are also feeling the pinch. Lynne Garner of Herts Hogline, a voluntary organisation caring for Hertfordshire’s hedgehogs for the last 20 years, explains the important conservation work they are doing and how you can help build a better future for one of our best loved and least understood mammals.

When I first started caring for hedgehogs, some 20 years ago, little was known about the problems they were facing. However today the worrying facts are known, as these two quotes demonstrate:

“Surveys show that populations have dropped by almost 50% over the last 25 years and the indication is that this decline is still continuing in England and Wales. If nothing is done to reverse the trend then this mammal could be extinct from some areas by 2050.”
People’s Trust For Endangered Species

“Britain’s hedgehogs could soon be an endangered species after their numbers plunged by an estimated 35 million to just one million over the last 50 years.”
International Business Times, 2nd February 2013

Four baby hogs plus mum rescued from a garden in October. They all survived, were placed with carers late last year and will be released back to the wild this spring. Pic ©Lynne Garner

Our work of rescuing sick, injured and orphaned hedgehogs is more important than ever. Based in Bishop’s Stortford and run completely by volunteers our HQ is a 6′ x 8′ converted shed. The volunteers and myself fit the care for these prickly creatures around our own lives and, with the help of a number of local veterinary practices, rescue between 40 to 75 hedgehogs a year.

This little hog was found in October. He came to us because he was too small to hibernate. However it was noticed he had a strange lump on his side. Our fantastic vet discovered he had a punctured lung and air was expecting into his body cavity. This air had to be drained off a couple of times. He made a full recovery and will be released back into the wild this spring. Pic ©Lynne Garner

It is our aim to return all hedgehogs to the wild. However, if a hedgehog is disabled by its injuries and cannot be released safely we have a list of safe gardens which allow the hedgehog to live as natural a life as possible in a safe and secure environment.

In March 2011 we were awarded the Burgess/Wetnose award for Best Small Animal Rescue. In the same year we reached our 500th rescued hedgehog (records started in 2000). As part of our work we aim to help educate the public in how they can help. We achieve this by visiting local groups such as WI’s, Gardening Clubs, Brownies, Scouts and schools. In return we ask for a donation and the chance to sell items. The advice we give is simple and includes:

• If you have a pond with steep sides then fit a ramp.
• Keep netting at least 15cm (6″) off the ground.
• Leave out food and water. This can be special hedgehog food, tinned cat/dog food (non-fishy flavours) or make your own by mixing chopped/crushed unsalted peanuts, dried mealworms, sultanas and sunflower hearts.
• Always check under hedges and long grass before you trim/cut it.
• Always check compost heaps prior to pushing in a garden fork.
• To avoid hedgehogs making a nest in your shed/garage keep the door closed at all times.
• Do not use slug pellets; find safer alternatives. If you do have to use pellets then:
• Use only when you know the problem will be at its worst and remove pellets when not needed.
• Place pellets in or under a tube so hedgehogs cannot reach them.
• Remove any dead or dying slugs/snails and dispose of safely.
• Always check a bonfire before you light it.
• Provide a good home by buying one or making your own. Plans for a hedgehog home can be found here
• Where possible try to create pathways between gardens.
• Hedgehogs are completely nocturnal, so if you see a hedgehog during the day they are likely to be unwell and in need of help.
• Never treat hedgehog for fleas yourself, many medications suitable for pets can be lethal to hedgehogs.
• During autumn and winter you may find small hedgehogs (weighing under 600 grams) that are too small to survive hibernation, so they need to be rescued.

The smallest hoglets we’ve ever managed to successfully hand rear – just 32 and 34 grams each – were released back into the wild. Pic ©Lynne Garner

If you find a hedgehog in need of help please feel free to contact us for advice. However none of our carers or myself are medically trained, so all hedgehogs have to be seen by a vet first. We can pick up (if within our area) from the practice and care for under their supervision.

How to support our work

At present we have enough carers and good release sites and have closed our books to new offers. However we are in need of funds so to help us achieve this please:

• Pass on our details to local groups (within a 20-mile radius of Standard Airport) who can book us for a presentation.
• Collect used printer cartridges (unable to use refills or Epson) we can sell these on.
• Visit our blog, click on the support us page and order your office supplies on the link provided.
• Hold your own fund raising event.

To contact us email: help@hertshogline.com
If you would like to discover more about Herts Hogline visit our Facebook page, Blog or follow us on Twitter: @hertshogline

To discover more about how you can help hedgehogs visit www.hedgehogstreet.org

I recently spent a day felling trees in Wormley Woods creating scalloped footpaths which open up areas within the woodland and allow sunlight to reach the woodland floor. This will provide new habitat for butterflies and wildflowers, which in turn benefits the whole woodland. The cut wood and branches were used to create dead hedges which will themselves become habitat for all manner of woodland dwelling animals and insects before eventually rotting back into the earth to continue the cycle of growth and regeneration. It was hard work but I found the experience extremely enjoyable, educational, rewarding and being that I found myself in the company of such an interesting group of characters, very social too. I’ll be out there again soon and for any of you who would like to join the volunteer army I asked Hannah Lewis, the Trust’s Volunteer Co-ordinator, about this and other volunteer opportunities with the Trust and how to get involved.

Grappling with a Birch while creating a woodland clearing

What exactly is a Woodland Work Party?

The aim of our Woodland Work Parties is to carry out vital habitat management work. Tasks include coppicing, hedge laying and scrub bashing; the aim is to improve existing habitats for wildlife and create new ones. Woodland Work Parties run from September through to March; work stops during the spring and summer months when nesting season begins. The work parties themselves are a great opportunity to get out and visit some wonderful reserves while getting some exercise, meeting people and learning a bit about wildlife conservation. I always think the best bit of the work party is at the end of a day; when you look back to see what you’ve achieved – it’s very satisfying!

What will I be doing and do I need any experience?

Each work party is different as the tasks carried out will vary from one reserve to another. As a work party volunteer you need no experience at all; you just need plenty of enthusiasm! As I’m sure you can imagine we are rarely put off by the weather so a willingness to work outdoors in any conditions helps. Unfortunately we have a few age restrictions which are set out by our insurers; we are unable to take on volunteers over the age of 80 or under the age of 11. Children under 16 need to bring a parent with them.

Where and when do they take place?

We run work parties most days somewhere within the county. There are monthly work parties on Mondays (Broxbourne Woods NNR), weekly work parties on Tuesdays (Watford and Hertford areas), Wednesdays (NE Herts area), Thursdays (our Green Team is on Thursdays and carries out tasks all over the county) and Fridays (Northaw Great Woods nr Cuffley) and various weekend work parties at a number of our reserves each week. We try to match volunteers with opportunities nearby in order to keep travel costs and carbon footprints to a minimum.

Are there other types of volunteering opportunity?

There are plenty of different volunteering opportunities with us. You can help with events, volunteer in the office, or help us survey and monitor our reserves.

A dead hedge that will become home to many woodland creatures

Do I have to commit to a minimum amount of hours?

There is absolutely no obligation to volunteer for a certain amount of time; we are hugely grateful to anyone that can volunteer however much time they can give. Some of our volunteers help us most days, while others may come once a year.

What if I can’t manage more the physical tasks?

We often have other opportunities available for volunteers who can’t manage practical tasks and we do our best to find opportunities for anyone who wishes to help.

What should I do next if I decide I’d like to volunteer?

If you are interested in volunteering or would simply like to find out a bit more about what’s involved you can give me a call in the office or email me anytime. I am always very happy to speak to anyone that is keen to find out a bit more. My email address is hannah.lewis@hmwt.org and my number is 01727 858 901. Otherwise there is a lot of information about how you can get involved on our website.

So tell us a bit about yourself?
Well, I am a Pipistrelle probably the most commonly seen of Hertfordshire’s 10 species of resident bat. I’m about 3.5cm long with a 22cm wingspan. I could fit easily into a matchbox but I get claustrophobic so don’t ask me to prove it.

Are you the smallest bird in Britain?
Bird! Actually I’m a mammal, we have fur and suckle our young, much as any other mammal would, we just have long webbed fingers that make excellent wings. We are the only mammals with the ability for ’true’ flight.

Where do you hang out then, belfries, crypts, graveyards?
Where did you do your research, the Hammer Horror Book of Bat Facts? I used to live in a cosy little tree trunk but I have just moved to a lovely cottage in Datchworth – nice little spot behind the barge boards with a bit more room for the family.

You drink blood though right?
OK I concede that I do have cousins in South America that will endulge in a drop of the red stuff but that is only 3 of nearly 1,000 species! I prefer insects myself… and before you ask I am not blind either.

Ah, but…
I know, don’t ask me where the saying came from . I can see perfectly well thank you –although it is in black and white – and, as I hunt in low light conditions, I have also developed this great little trick called echolocation which allows me to pinpoint my grub in the dark.

How does that work then?
I send out high pitched sounds, mostly beyond the range of human hearing, and as it bounces back from surrounding objects I can build up a picture by comparing the differing amounts of time it takes for the sounds to return.

So what would you normally be doing at this time of year?
Hibernating. I generally sleep from December to February although I’ll occasionally pop out to eat, drink or talk to the media.

Any other interesting bat facts?
We can rotate our eyes 180 degrees so that when we hang upside down we can still see properly.

Really?
Don’t be daft. But seriously, the population of most species of bat is declining and some of us, like the Greater Horseshoe Bat, are among the most endangered animals in Britain.

Why’s that then?
Well the main reasons are, loss of suitable roosting sites, the decline of feeding habitat and the use of pesticides which reduces our food sources. Some timber treatments used in the roofs of the houses where we live are poisonous to bats too.

Blimey, I didn’t realise, can I help?
You can. Local and national bat groups that are doing a tremendous amount, go to www.hmbg.org.uk for more information on how you can help them to help us. It can be as simple as encouraging more night flying insects by planting the right flowers or creating a pond and you could also consider putting up a bat box for us to roost and breed in.

Great thank you for putting me straight on a few things there, I’ll let you get off now… before the sun comes up!